Archive for the ‘Wanderings’ category

More on Brooklyn Heights

September 21, 2007

I’ve gotten so involved in parades and the like that I’ve neglected a post I’ve been planning to write for a couple of weeks.  At the beginning of September, I ankled my way around Brooklyn Heights and I’ve written two posts about it (here and here).

But there was more and I wanted to give a little more information about this very attractive and well-positioned place.  So far, I’ve written about Borough Hall and the Promenade, now let’s see what was in-between.

Brooklyn Heights is quite historic.  As mentioned before, its favorite son is Henry Ward Beecher from Plymouth Church of the Pilgrims.

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It’s an attractive an modern-looking church that belies its actual age.

A plaque on the church reads “Plymouth Church of the Pilgrims founded in 1847 as Plymouth Church and built in 1849 from designs by J.C. Wells.  This Congregational Church became a center of anti-slavery sentiment preceding the Civil War.  Henry Ward Beecher was its first minister, 1847-1887.  Abraham Lincoln worshipped here twice in 1860.  A fragment of Plymouth Rock is in an adjoining arcade.  In 1934 it was united with Church of the Pilgrims, founded in 1844.  Plaque erected in 1961 by The New York Community Trust”

Inside the courtyard (where I couldn’t go) was another statue of Beecher.  And a frieze of Lincoln.  And of a familiar figure just to the side of Beecher.

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You may have to enlarge it to see better (just click on the picture), but it’s another slave figure like in the original Brooklyn Heights post I did.  I have some very mixed feelings about the positioning, but can’t figure out where I stand.  I presume the statues are much older and putting “the great man” on a pedestal next to lowly nobodies is probably par for its time.  But I don’t know if Beecher wouldn’t complain about his relative elevation.  (Of course, I honestly don’t know that he would complain.)

In any event, it is odd that the Heights essentially has the same statue twice within a few hundred yards.  (Note that the statues are very different versions of Beecher, but with the same idea of him elevated next to a downtrodden slave figure.)

The Lincoln frieze is good, but it doesn’t show up well on the picture.

It’s been said that Brooklyn is the land of churches, and I think that’s true.  Both Manhattan and Brooklyn are filled with churches some well attended and some not.  But a lot of them are quite spectacular.  Also in Brooklyn Heights is the Episcopal Church of St. Ann and the Holy Trinity.

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Yeah, there’s scaffolding in the front, but the church is big and grand and has a great front door.

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But there’s more to the Heights than just that.  The streets are incredibly quiet and pleasant and the buildings are first rate.  Here’s some Pierrepont Street brownstones.

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Pierrepont Street also has the Brooklyn Historical Society.

Historically, there’s a spot in the Heights where George Washington was leading the American revolutionaries during the Battle of Long Island.  He eventually had to withdraw in the face of superior force and successfully evaded the British and preserved his army.

There’s a street called Remson Street that had a variety of different architectural types in the same block.

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It’s not as evident in the picture, but there is a definite difference among the line of townhouses.  And all, apparently, were build long ago during their respective dates of the style.

One weird thing did happen, the only thing out of the commonplace during my visit.  I was walking up from the Promenade and smelled smoke.  I had noticed a homeless guy about 20 yards ahead of me slow down for a moment or two and then walk on.  And then I smelled smoke.  When I got up to the area he had slowed/stopped, I found a newspaper on fire!  Just a few pages of it and just burning in the middle of the sidewalk.  I let it continue to burn for a few seconds, but once the wind kicked up, I stomped it out.  I don’t know if the guy started it or just observed it as he was going by (kind of like I did).  Hey, it could have been spontaneous combustion for all I know.  It sure did make for an interesting moment, though.

-H

The Feast of San Gennaro

September 20, 2007

Okay, it’s September, it’s NYC, I’m not Italian; but I’m going to the Feast.

St. Gennaro (AKA St. Januarius) is the patron saint of Naples.  That’s something I just recently learned and have to admit that too many mafia movies had me thinking of Little Italy only in Sicilian terms.  The Feast of San Gennaro is Little Italy’s biggest celebration and is a magnet for tourists and the occasional ankler (your host).  I’ve been there over the past couple of years, but each time was at a quiet point at the end of the Feast, so I never got too much of a sense as to how crowded it was.

Well, this year, I bested myself big time.  I went there on the first Saturday of the festival and then I went on Wednesday night (the actual Feast Day of San Gennaro).  In a word:  crowded.  In a few words:  really, really crowded…oh, and lots of food and a carnival atmosphere.

Here’re some pictures from Saturday.

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The Feast is held mostly on Mulberry Street and goes all the way from Houston Street in the north (okay, about 20 yard shy of the end of the block) to Canal Street in the South.  This is traditional Little Italy, although it used to include a couple of other blocks, but which are now mostly Chinatown and a bit of SoHo.

Saturday’s crowd was massive.  But I suspect there’s a bit of trick to it.  Mulberry is a pretty thin street, but they add all the stands to the edges of the street.  That makes a thin street even thinner.  It would have a crowded feel if there were just a few dozen people and not a couple of thousand (I guess).  The crowding drives up the energy, of course.  And that’s the sort of thing I thoroughly enjoy.

Parts of the Feast are totally dominated by food vendor after food vendor.  The best of them are ones that are just extensions of the restaurants.  Lots of NYC restaurants dominate the sidewalks outside, but in the Feast they get to take over a lot of the street.

As I was exploring on Saturday, I became a bit discouraged with the situation.  I kept seeing a lot of standard NYC “street fair” vendors.  I see street fairs each and every weekend.  You wanna buy socks?  Wallets?  Linens?  The street fairs have them plus a lot of other boring stuff.  The fairs also have a lot of food vendors, typically dominated by gyro, smoothie, and crepe suppliers.  Boring and repetitive and not attractive to me.  And I was seeing some of these same food vendors at the Feast (thankfully, no sock and wallet guys).  One thing that the Feast of San Gennaro has done that’s warmed my heart is to not have that junk.  Instead, they are very ethnic.  And, yet here they were.

So, I wandered down to the lower reaches of Mulberry and thought I’d check out a bit of authentic Little Italy:  the Church.  When I’ve seen it before, they’ve had money next to the statue of the saint.  This time there was more.

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I’d seen the bills attached to some cardboard before, but this time it was on the statue.

The statue of Mary was similarly bedecked.

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So, I left on Saturday feeling a little discouraged.  The street vendors had busted through and it seemed to be a really nice version of a street fair, but a street fair nonetheless.

And then I went on Wednesday night and the Feast was back in order.  The vendors didn’t get up quite as near Houston as on Saturday, but it seems that most of the street fair places were gone.  Good.  (Hey, I know those people work hard but I see them everywhere on the weekends and the repetitiveness is not to my taste.)

Lots of games and other stuff for the kids.20070919-feast-of-san-gennaro-01-game.jpg

They didn’t seem to be doing the business they had on Saturday, but fewer kids were out on a school night.  That’s fine with me.

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One character I certainly didn’t see on Saturday.

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Two snakes, one iguana, and two parrots.  I would have noticed him Saturday, don’tchathink? 

And there was food.  And more food.  And a bit more.  And after that, more food.

The mainstay of the Feast of San Gennaro is?  (Answer:  sausage and peppers!)  It’s everywhere.
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But don’t let the “peppers” fool you.  It’s about 95% onion.  They’ll put a few bell peppers on the top, but it’s onions all the way down.

Okay, what do you think this guy is selling?

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It’s the other mainstays of the Feast:  zeppoles and calzones.

Now, zeppoles are a mainstay, but they ain’t the only choice for dessert.

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The above is just one of many.  The cannoli people are everywhere, too.  I love me a good cannoli.

The Feast doesn’t cover a big area, but it covers the area it does have very tightly.  I do enjoy it and am delighted that my initial concern didn’t hold for the whole Feast time. 

I haven’t mentioned that it does encompass parts of some of the sidestreets, but it does.

And I’ve saved the “worst” for last.  Everyone reading this blog who has been to the Feast is wondering when I’m going to mention him.  Drown the clown.  Or, drown the insulting clown.  He’ s a clown figure who sits in a dunking booth and spews out minor insults to passerbys, or more directly at the people who are throwing baseballs at the lever to send him into the water.  As I was walking nearby on Saturday, I was right behind a family and the kids saw him and got excited.  “Mom” said something like “Oh, your father can’t stand him” and “Dad” responded “He always makes fun of my nose.”  The kids laughed and the last I saw they were on their way to try to drown the clown.
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-H

Ankling to the German Parade / Steuben Day Parade in NYC

September 16, 2007

Technically, the name of the parade on Saturday is the Steuben Day Parade, but when I first heard about it, some people called it the German Parade.  Both fit.

I’ve been in NYC for three years and I’ve been doing my parade routine for about a year and I was completely unaware it even existed.  But there is such a parade and I did enjoy myself.

I know I’m going to get some criticism for my attitude at the West Indian Day Parade compared with the German Parade.  I cited the lack of enthusiasm in the West Indian parade and there was just about as much enthusiasm at the Steuben parade; but I don’t expect the German’s to be screaming out in joy and I did expect something like that for the West Indians (hey, the Puerto Ricans did and the Dominicans did).  Yet, there were a number of whoops and hollers from the Germans both in the parade and the spectators, plus a fair amount of applause for certain groups like police, military, and firefighters. 

The parade was scheduled to begin at noon.  It was led by the same cops on horses that are at every parade.  While some local church bells were tolling, the parade began.  The marchers began.  Good German efficiency, I guess.  Of course, ten minutes in the whole march ground to a halt for about 10 more minutes, but it was perfectly scheduled after that.

My first picture was taken as I was walking up to the parade at 5th Avenue and 64th Street (it started on 61st).  I was on 63rd and saw a young lady and her mother(?).  She was nicely set up and I had to ask for a picture.  Apparently she’s Miss Suffolk County.  A very nice person who happily posed for me.

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I didn’t see her again until almost the end of the parade…three hours later.  The poor kid had to just wait and pose for the occasional lout like me.  She deserves the first spot in the post.

Anyway, the parade began.  I had walked past a bunch of floats and marchers (and the occasional beauty queen) and was pretty astonished to see that a lot of them had nothing but German text on them, or were primarily written in German.  As I stood on the parade route, the people around me were virtually all German.  They all spoke English, but with some or a lot of accent.  Here’s one of my “neighbors”.

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Toward the beginning of the parade, there was the usual crowd of dignataries.

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Nobody I recognized.  No politicians.  What’s going on?  I don’t understand why the politicians would be ducking this parade.  The crowd wasn’t overwhelming, but it’s a good sized parade.  Ahhh, who cares?

Maybe the sight of German troops walking on Fifth Avenue was too much.

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They also had German cops.

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But, mostly they had old German fashions of all sorts.

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Yep, lots of leiderhosen.

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And there were lots of other sights.

Below is actually one of my favorite points of the parade.  It happened very early.  Let’s just say these guys were TALL.  With the hats, some topped seven feet.  That’s the key and that’s why I liked the display.  The thing I found great is that they didn’t explain who these guys were.  I knew.  Take a look.

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Frederick the Great would recruit the tallest men in his kingdom.  These guys apparently were representing Germany’s greatest leader’s preference in troops.  It’s a little thing, but I got a laugh out of it.

My least favorite part of the parade were a bunch of rude people who crossed the barriers to give themselves a better view.  Especially the two older people on the right of line in the picture below.  Everyone in our area was complaining about it.  I took a lot of pictures during the parade, but a lot of them had to be taken at bad angles because of these two people and the others who followed them out.  New York’s finest ignored them mostly (the cops were about 20 feet to my right).  Twice one cop came up to them and chased them back.  In less than one minute, they had resumed their position.

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There were the occasional cute sights

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The picture below is a little blurry, thank the rude people that I couldn’t get a good shot.

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Actually, I saw a number of people pulling wagons like this.  I don’t know why they had them.  Water?

I took a lot of pictures.  A lot.  Here are some others.  First, pikemen.

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Some beauty queens.

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Maypole dancers.

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Donald Trump’s casino made an appearance.

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And then the “wild characters” showed up.  They were a real crowd pleaser.

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They started off with marchers with large masks.

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And then they were supplemented with more traditional troll-like characters.

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And then they started in with characters throwing confetti.  One of them came up to me and rubbed purple confetti all over me.  I am still finding it.

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I may be finding it for days.

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Another crowd-pleaser was a group of traditional dancers.  You wouldn’t think of it to look at them, but these are some wild-dancing people.

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They were terrific.  I think they’re going to be hurting in the morning.

There was even a group of Civil War re-enactors.

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Overall, I took over 200 pictures.  Most are different versions of what you’ve seen here.  But there were lots and lots of floats and marching groups that I simply don’t have the time or bandwidth to post.

Overall in the pantheon of Famous Ankle parades, this is a pretty good parade.  The music was good when it was there (and I don’t think any of it was recorded music).  The floats had a lot of people throwing candy to the kids, but it never crossed the barricades so other marchers would sometimes pick it up or some of the people on the other side of the barricade would get it (some parents lifted their children into the street for that, in fact).

-H

Night picture of the Chrysler Building

September 15, 2007

You already know that the Chrysler Building is one of my favorite buildings in NYC.  It was the first photo I posted with my new camera.

I figure that it was time to post a nighttime picture.

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The building’s scalloped top is always lit in white.  The Empire State Building’s nighttime colors change every night.

-H

Guss Pickles Redux

September 13, 2007

I got me my mighty good pickles.

I had an opportunity to get down to Orchard Street a little while ago and decided to check out Guss’ Pickles again.  It was open.  As I had mentioned, the storefront is a sham.  They roll out the barrels for you to buy from.

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That’s Pat Fairhurst, the owner.  She sells a mighty good pickle.  I got the spicy…oh, yes I did.  And it was very, very spicy.  Actually, I bought two.  Here she posed with them.

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I know you’d need to know what she sells.  It isn’t just pickles.  She has a few others.  I haven’t (yet) partaken of anything other than the half-sour and the SPICY!!!!!!

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Pickles, tomatoes, sour/sweet kraut and peppers, capers, mushrooms and artichokes.  Me, I like the spicy pickle. 

In support of the small businesswoman, and if you’re at all interested:  she does a mail order business and can be contacted at (212) 334-3616.  The hours are 10am-6pm (Sun-Thurs), 10am-4pm Friday, closed on Saturday.  But I already told you that part.

Oh, the address is:  Guss’ World Famous Pickles 85-87 Orchard Street, NY, NY  10002.

She’s a nice person and she makes a mighty good pickle.

-H