Archive for October 2007

The Korean Parade on Broadway

October 7, 2007

It was a Saturday and the Korean Parade was set to go.  Therefore, so was I. 

The day was bright and sunny and I was interested in the parade in an odd way simply because it was on Broadway and I don’t recall having seen one on that avenue before.  (There’s a sort of heirarchy of parades where certain avenues such as Fifth get the biggest and the smaller ones go to other streets such as Madison and 2nd and 6th.)  There had been no publicity about the Korean Parade that I was aware of, which for me tends to mean a small parade which is often very interesting.  Yet, there really isn’t a big link that I’m aware of between mid-town Broadway and the Korean community.  There is a huge community out in Queens and I’m sure many live in Manhattan, but I was wondering why they weren’t holding it in Queens.  (On the other hand, I don’t think many Nigerians live on Second Avenue, but their consulate is there and is probably a hub of their social network.)  Nevertheless, I expected to see an interesting parade with some very interesting displays.

And I got it.

The parade started just about on time with the usual “cops on horses”.

20071006-korean-parade-02-cops-on-horses.jpg

The parade was from 41st Street down to 23rd.  I was at 37th.  The day was a bright and sunny day, but I had positioned myself in a shadier area.  Later, as the earth kept turning and the sun kept creeping in, the brightness would become an issue.

There were really two signature parts of the parade.  Well, maybe it’s better to say that there were two sights in the parade that I found more interesting than the others.  First, was what I can only refer to as the “head whirl”.  This was a marcher who had a sort of whirligig on his/her head that had a long white ribbon.  By twisting the head just right, the ribbon would circle the user.  It was a very nice visual.

20071006-korean-parade-03-headwhirl.jpg

Later in the parade, there would be a number of the headwhirlers walking together, appropriately spaced out of course.

A common sight and sound during the parade were the drummers.  In the below case, wearing a hat/headcovering that was very colorful.

20071006-korean-parade-05-colorful-drummer.jpg

The music was pleasant, the drumming was very good; but the crowd was sparse.

20071006-korean-parade-06-watching-the-parade.jpg

Note that the crowd wasn’t particularly Korean, either.  It wasn’t quite as lopsided as the Nigerian Parade (where I think maybe I saw very few Nigerians who weren’t in the parade), but there were very few Korean nationals in the crowd.

The usual dignitaries did arrive.

20071006-korean-parade-07-dignitaries.jpg

As usual, I’ve no idea who they are.

I didn’t see a single New York politician participating.

There were a number of social groups that participated.  Among them were the Korean-Germany Association.

20071006-korean-parade-08-korean-germany-association.jpg

Another group was the Sygnman Rhee Association that commemorates the first post-WWII Korean president.  There were Korean-American police officers, a group that maintains cultural ties for Koreans adopted by Americans, and Korean Air had a nice float (pic below).

20071006-korean-parade-10-korean-air-float.jpg.

My favorite group was this bunch:  Korean War Veterans.  Technically, the war continues but this group may have taken part in that incredible 1950-53 part of the war.

20071006-korean-parade-14-war-veterans.jpg

Getting back to the “signature” parts of the parade, the second most arresting visual was something that was called “The Royal Procession of Great King Sejong”.  It took up the entire middle part of the parade.  There were two characters who may have portrayed the Great King, but neither was marked as such.  Here are some pictures from the procession.

20071006-korean-parade-16-royal-procession-of-great-king-sejong.jpg

The horns they were playing gave out sort of a kazoo-sound.  Actually, it sounded much better than that, but that’s the closest I can describe it.

This section was a very solemn procession, but I did catch one guy showing some personality.

20071006-korean-parade-18-royal-procession-of-great-king-sejong-shows-some-personality.jpg

But note the paucity, even the absence of viewers behind him (on the sunny side of the street).

During this time, some of the head-whirlers gave a display.  Very well done, but impossible to really capture in still pictures.

20071006-korean-parade-19-royal-procession-of-great-king-sejong.jpg

And, probably, one of the Great King characters.

20071006-korean-parade-20-royal-procession-of-great-king-sejong.jpg

Later, another figure may have also been the King.

20071006-korean-parade-23-honored-figure.jpg

I often talk about the “men in skirts” phenomenon.  They sort of had it here, but they were more robes than a native dress that resembled the modern skirt.  I’ve also mentioned a character with a beard wearing a skirt (and parrot and tie-dyed dog):  not seen at this parade.

But this was a new one:  women in beards.

20071006-korean-parade-22-women-in-beards.jpg

They looked like they were portraying ancient scholars.  I don’t know if they’re being women was important to the storyline or whether they just needed people in the march.  Doesn’t matter, but it is still unique in my experience.

Part of the procession had a large drum with one person at each end banging on it.  It sounded good.  But, once again, note the absence of a crowd watching.

20071006-korean-parade-26-drum-with-no-crowd.jpg

An auto company had a car with a woman in national dress.

20071006-korean-parade-28-traditional-dress.jpg

There were several martial arts displays.  The age ranges were generally pretty young.

20071006-korean-parade-35-martial-arts-demonstration.jpg

20071006-korean-parade-29-ready-to-rumble.jpg

The pictures above and below are two of my favorites.  It’s all about their attitudes.

20071006-korean-parade-31-four-different-attitudes.jpg

Four girls, four attitudes.  And the little boy looks ready for any trouble that may come his way.

And the drummers were everywhere.

20071006-korean-parade-37-colorful-drummers.jpg

I liked this character.  He was having a grand time.

20071006-korean-parade-36-marching-man-with-pipe.jpg

 And cops weren’t the only ones on horses.

20071006-korean-parade-34-korean-horsewomen.jpg

But probably my favorite visual was this picture.  It just shouts out something very…Korean.

 20071006-korean-parade-46-traditional.jpg

An ancient and deep culture.

It was a long parade with lots of pagentry and color.  Overall, it was an excellent display, but to so few of us that it loses a lot of its power.  I always say that much of a parade’s appeal is in its audience.  The two spectacles feed each other and make each other better.

Speaking of this, being New York there had be “another”.  During the parade, I saw one nearby member of the crowd occasionally going out into the parade and taking pictures.  He had a tripod, seemed to “belong” out there, but didn’t appear to be an official photographer.  Right after I saw the “women in beards”, he and I talked (I wanted to make absolutely sure they were women because I was seeing them from a little distance, despite my camera zoom).  It turns out that he’s originally from Russia and goes to all the parades!  Kind of like Famous Ankles (excepting being Russian).  We compared stories and it turns out he’s gone to a lot of the same parades as I have, although he’s more interested in the native costumes and cultures rather than the actual parades.  His photos are strictly for his own viewing and he takes far fewer than I do.

Nevertheless, we both agreed that the day, although beautiful, was way too sunny and set off too many shadows that didn’t photograph well.  I took tons of photos (actually more than 300), but there’s absolutely no room for such volume here.

This weekend has two more parades and we each intend to go to both.  I doubt we’ll see each other as they are much, much larger than the Korean Parade.

But, it was nice meeting you Victor.  Have fun.

-H

Ankling Brooklyn’s Smith Street

October 6, 2007

I watch a number of the local TV shows such as “$9.99” and “Cool in Your Code” that detail interesting areas around NYC.  Brooklyn is a subject in a lot of these shows and they tend to call every area that they are reviewing a new sort of hipster haven.  And it seems to be true.  New Yorkers are always looking for the new and the unique.  And that tends to mean artists, restaurants, and nightclubs.  Recent times appear to have really driven out the artists from Manhattan and they keep moving to Brooklyn (and I’d be remiss not to mention that some of them go to The Bronx, too).  Brooklyn’s big and sprawling, but the attractive areas tend to be near the East River.  I’ve mentioned places like Park Slope (not particularly near the East River), Brooklyn Heights (right there), and Williamsburg are all those sorts of places.  But, I’ve also been aware of another area:  Smith Street.  Technically, it isn’t an area at all.  Instead, it’s a street that seems to go through three significant neighborhoods and all three are on the “cool” radar:  Boerum Hill, Cobble Hill, and Carroll Gardens (also known as the BoCoCa district).  The odd thing is that I seem to spot “Smith Street” mentioned all over the place, but the BoCoCa area is thrown in almost as an afterthought.  Well….not that extreme.  I’ll hear something like how good the restaurants are in Boerum Hill, and the address is almost always on Smith Street.  Or, I’ll see an ad that mentions Carroll Gardens and the ad will mention Smith Street.  Or, I’ll read an article on some new celebrity that’s chosen to live in BoCoCa and I’ll see Smith Street mentioned as a celebrity spotting area or something.  In any event, the place just seemed to be asking Famous Ankles to wanders its length.

And so I did.

The furthest south part of the district is Carroll Gardens, so it’s appropo that I got off the subway at the Carroll Gardens stop and started heading north.

First of all, remember that this is Brooklyn.  That means lots of things to me.  First, it means low buildings and then it means lots of trees.  There are tons and tons of brownstones and oodles of restaurants and vintage clothing places.  Smith Street is absolutely typical of that.  The one item it doesn’t seem to have a lot of are churches.  Brooklyn has lots of churches, but I don’t remember seeing anything on Smith Street itself, although there were a number of them when I wandered off the main path.

But, the three-story buildings?  Check.  Here’s Carroll Gardens.

20070930-smith-street-01-carroll-gardens.jpg

Oh, yeah.  It’s got a nice little farmers’ market on Saturdays.  Apparently a very long tradition for the area.  The nearby sign said it had been going on for 30 years.

20070930-smith-street-04-farmers-market.jpg

Nowhere near the size of the Union Square market, but not bad at all.

The side streets have lots of nice little brownstores and row houses.

20070930-smith-street-06-street.jpg

20070930-smith-street-12-brownstones.jpg

The below is on Wyckoff Street.

20070930-smith-street-11-brownstones-on-wyckoff-st.jpg

I don’t know the prices, but I did see a note in a nearby realtor office that had a 3-story place on the market for $1.3 million.  The street on the flyer wasn’t any of the streets that I walked on, so it’s just a rough guess for the above.

As I wandered the area, I did note a significant Hispanic influence just by hearing conversations in Spanish and such things as the following picture.  (It isn’t necessarily Hispanic, but something about the area seemed to be very Hispanic although I can’t recall or describe it.  I can pretty much tell you flatly that it ain’t Protestant.)

20070930-smith-street-13-sacred-heart-statue.jpg

Now, I will say this about Smith Street:  you wanna eat?  Smith Street has it for you.  That is, unless you want fast food.  I didn’t see a single McDonalds or other mainstream fast food place anywhere.  It warmed my heart.

And, in the distance, loomed Borough Hall.

20070930-smith-street-05-street.jpg

I finally did decide to stop and eat at a local place. 

 20070930-smith-street-14-pacifico-restaurant.jpg

It’s the Pacifico Restaurant on Pacific Street.  It is a little odd why they would name a street in New York after the Pacific Ocean.  (They can’t mean “calm street”, hey!  It’s Brooklyn!)  The place is absolutely, marvelously Brooklynesque.  It’s well kept up, but not fancy.  The tables and all are cheap, but not horribly so.  It wants to say that it is a down-home family kind of place, but who knows about that?  In any event, the eating area was in the open area in the middle of the place and I ordered the fish tacos.  I’m not a real trustworthy source for food picks, but I liked it.  Not real cheap, but not bad. 

Overall, Smith Street is a great walk with wonderful amenities and pretty nice people.  You can do worse than visit or live in the area.

-H

Rockefeller Center before the cold comes

October 5, 2007

I was wandering about one recent evening and found some of the undeniable signs of Fall’s coming.  Rockefeller Center is preparing the Zamboni.

20070929-5th-ave-10-rockefeller-center-rink.jpg

Soon…soon…

-H

Atlantic Avenue Street Fair in Brooklyn

October 4, 2007

Last weekend, I was wandering Smith Street in Brooklyn (post forthcoming) and ran into a very, very nice street fair on Atlantic Avenue.  If you’ve seen other posts where I mention street fairs, you’ll note that I’m not fond of them.  They’re too repetitive and predictable.  I only need so many wallets and socks.

When I first ran into the fair, I noticed it was…a lot different than a typical Manhattan street fair.  This one had character and real displays.  West of Smith Street, it was decidedly oriented towards kids.  And pretty crowded, too.

20070930-atlantic-ave-street-fair-15.jpg

20070930-atlantic-ave-street-fair-16-street-fair-dancers.jpg

About 20 minutes after taking this picture, I wandered past this area again and found it still running.  There were a bunch of little girls from some dance academy that were lined up to demonstrate their talent.  They received pretty good applause from the onlookers and everyone seemed to be having a good time.  Lots of proud moms and dads, I’m sure.

For me, the highlight of the fair was the New York Transit Museum’s bus display.  I’ve never seen anything like it.  Great, great stuff.  I’ve seen double-deckers in Manhattan, but they always seem to be tourist buses.  I’d love for what I typically ride to be replaced by something like the below.

20070930-smith-street-21-transit-museum-double-decker.jpg

There were a bunch of buses, but a couple of items were also very interesting.  First, there was a “tunnel wreaker” that would clear disabled vehicles out of the subways.

20070930-atlantic-ave-street-fair-20-transit-museum-tunnel-wreaker.jpg

And there was a specialized machine that did electrical monitoring in the tunnels, in 1936 no less.

20070930-smith-street-23-transit-museum-electrical-truck.jpg

But the real bus, at least for old timers, was the 1948 bus that was called something like the “Jackie Gleason Special”.  It’s the style of bus that the his character “Ralph Kramden” in “The Honeymooners” drove in his job.  Of course, the TV show was way too low budget for that.  I didn’t think they ever even had an exterior shot, but a sign said he was photographed in “Bus Number 2969”.  (The sign did note that the bus’ real number was 4789, but was re-numbered to meet the show’s needs.)

20070930-atlantic-ave-street-fair-26-transit-museum-jackie-gleason-bus.jpg

Here’s the interior.

20070930-atlantic-ave-street-fair-27-transit-museum-jackie-gleason-bus-interior.jpg

This makes me happy to have the current buses, despite their length of about half a block.  I can’t imagine today’s needs being met by this sort of vehicle.

Anyway, after the Transit Museum display, I decided to walk all the way to the end of the fair in the east.  It was a big fair and it sure had a crowd. 

20070930-atlantic-ave-street-fair-31.jpg

Basically, from Smith Street I walked all the way to the Atlantic Avenue subway stop.  It seemed a lot longer than it actually was simply because of the crowds, but then I do enjoy a good crowd.  Along the way, there were a number of live singing acts including R&B, jazz, a little country, and gospel.

20070930-atlantic-ave-street-fair-33-gospel-singers-and-darfur.jpg

Probably the most interesting part of the fair for me was the change in the neighborhood along the way.  It transitioned slowly, but perceptively along the way and I was fascinated that the crowd mix was pretty consistent except for the families being more numerous at the west end of the fair (in the kids and Transit Museum area).  As fairs like this are really extensions of the actual neighborhoods, it was wonderful to see the different groups in the east and the west of the area all got together to put on a nice display for everyone.

-H

Vespas and Maseratis at Grand Central

October 3, 2007

It’s nearing Columbus Day and Grand Central is starting to catch the Italian spirit.  I went in recently and found that they had two very different, but essentially similar exhibits.  What could be more different than Vespas and Maseratis?

20070929-grand-central-01-vespas.jpg

There were four of them just inside from Vanderbilt Hall.  And right in the Grand Councourse were two Maserati Quattroportes.

20070929-grand-central-04-maserati-quattroporte.jpg

The Vespas were for display only as far as I could tell.  No price tags and really no signs around for them.  But the Maseratis did have a little something for the car enthusiasts.  First, they had a nice bit of signage on it with description and capabilities…and price tag.  That’s what I wanted to know.  The answer:  $117,000 base price.  There was a card drop to get additional information on the cars, too.  And a number of people had filled it out.

But the interesting part of it was there was a second sign that said you could win the Maserati.  There was going to be a drawing.  The catch(es)?  There would only be 300 tickets in the drawing…and the price of each ticket was $1,000.  I passed.  But the car is impressive.

I imagine the Vespas are much cheaper, but both modes have their appeal to me.  For Manhattan, I think I’d be much better off with a Vespa.  At the very least they are easier to find parking for.  However, I am still very much of an “ankler about town” and will settle for a less catchy mode of travel than either of the two options.

-H